It’s your road and yours alone. Others may walk it with you but no one can walk it for you.
~ Rumi
Sit back, relax, grab a cold beverage, and enjoy.
From Trout River, near Gros Morne National Park we travelled toward Port Aux Basques. On the way we stopped in Corner Brook to pickup some prescription dog food for Morgan. I am still battling with her licking her paws and finding no relief for her. Royal Canin Hydrolized protein food is next. I pray to the Canine Gods that this will work for her.
To get this food I had to phone my vet in Cumberland - thank you Dr. Carol Champion! - to send me a prescription so I could then forward it to the vet in Corner Brook. Thank goodness they had a couple bags of food that I could pick up and know that it will do me for quite a while. With that out of the way we ventured onwards.
July 15 we stayed at the Barachois Provincial Park. From there we toured the French Ancestors Loop which led us to a spectacular beach that we knew nothing about, Blue Beach on a spit of land called Long Point. We stayed for about an hour. Morgan had a swim, we took pictures, and we breathed in the beauty. We ended the loop with dinner at Secret Cove Brewery (Port Au Port) which has become one of our favourites.
Stephenville is a short drive from Barachois. It was the home of Ernest Harmon Air Force Base. It is a bit eerie driving through this decommissioned property. Funny, though, there is still the guard building at the entrance. Even funnier is the mannequin that mans the building. If it weren’t for the traffic behind me I may have thrown cash for a toll. Hahaha. And to tell the truth, I did a double take not knowing if it was real or not. July 17 - Barachois to Codroy
Again we did some great exploring and found ourselves in the Codroy Valley at Cape Anguilla Lighthouse. It was absolutely beautiful with the sky, the glittering ocean and of course, the lighthouse. Our campground spot was at the side of a beautiful river. Sadly, I got eaten by no-see-ums. It also happened at Barachois. I actually went to the pharmacy in Codroy to purchase some Benedryll because I reacted so badly. For me it was torture - the itch, the pain and the swelling lasted days.
Another day trip that we did was to Rose Blanche Lighthouse. This was an old stone lighthouse that they have turned into a museum. I had to take a moment to pause here. There were sailboats leaving the harbour. It struck me that one of those boats in a past dream could have been Ron and me. In silence I watched them for a long while.
To get to Rose Blanche we drove through some interesting little towns. One of them was Burnt Islands. The population is 521 according to Wikipedia. As with most communities in Newfoundland, it was developed around the fishing industry. And with the moratorium on cod fishing, it too has suffered. But for one enterprising fella he is thriving. He purchases old fishing rope and makes mats. And yes, I bought one. That will be two mats I have purchased in Newfoundland. I just love them and they will be great at my beach house. The ferry to Nova Scotia is six to seven hours. On top of that they wanted us at the terminal at least two hours early. And because I naturally like to be early we were there plenty before the deadline. Our ferry left at 11:45 and I am glad to say it was uneventful. We had a pet-friendly cabin so, in fact, we were all comfortable in Morgan’s air conditioned room.
I was lucky to secure a Harvest Host spot for when we arrived. It was close to the ferry and easy for me to make my way to Sydney the next day. My truck is due for another servicing. This is service #2 since I left in April. That means I am packing on the kilometres and that is good because that was the whole idea :)Colburne Ford let us stay the next night while the truck got serviced. We also took the opportunity to grocery shop and get propane.
July 21 - Sydney to Cheticamp
Oh my goodness. We lucked into a beautiful campground. We could walk to the ocean and take in spectacular sunsets. This was our home base while we explored part of the Cabot Trail.
Meat Cove. Now what kind of name is that? One that says, visit me. We did. As with Blue Beach in Newfoundland, we were delighted with Meat Cove. Admittedly, the water was freezing but Morgan had a great time swimming. I wet my feet, took pictures, and enjoyed the serenity of this little bay.
Meat Cove is Nova Scotia’s most northerly settlement. From Meat Cove we headed to Bay St. Lawrence, another little community. This place had an emotional attachment that I did not realize until I stopped to walk where Ron and I walked 14 years ago. It is the place where we watched the fog crawl over the hills as the sun dissipated it. We were in awe. It was like I felt his presence. We ended our little tour by visiting Dingwall. I have to remind you that these little places do not have stores or coffee shops. They are just places and each one offers its own unique character and style. That is what makes them worth exploring.
The next morning, I gave Morgan a clipping to help her be cooler in the warm weather. It was getting hot by mid morning and we were all wanting to be cool. We set up the bug tent which offers a bit of shade and fortunately we had electricity to use the AC.
We did laundry in the afternoon. The laundromat was down the road. While it washed we drove down to a little art gallery and coffee shop for a iced latte. It was shady for Morgan and we were all happy. When we got back to the laundry we discovered that the washing machine did not spin our clothes or bed linen. Everything was sopping wet. Piece by piece we took it outside to wring it out before putting it in the dryer. Grrrrrrrrrrrr.
The end of the day was spent in the Atlantic Ocean swimming at sunset with Morgan and Karen. It was a beautiful end to a beautiful day. The Skyline Trail on Cape Breton is very popular and for good reason. I really wanted to do it but I knew that I could not hike it in the heat. Also, Morgan is not allowed on that trail. I decided that it was best for me if we got up early and did it in the morning. That meant leaving about 0600.
It was the best choice. We were the second car in the parking lot. It was fairly cool. And, best of all, we did not see many people. It was over 10 kms by the time we finished. At that point, everyone else was arriving and we were happy to be heading out as it got warmer. The views were stunning and I can see why a lot of people like to do it in the evening. For me, comfort in the cool of the morning was great.
We left Cheticamp in the afternoon to find a new place to stay. Our goal was to explore the Ceilidh Trail (pronounced Caley). We found a beautiful spot on Lake Ainslie but unfortunately they could only accommodate us one night. We had a lake side spot and it was great for a cooling-down swim. It was funny too. The owner said that the men near us were talking about us. Apparently a couple of them were going to offer help until they realized we didn’t need their help. Hahahahaha. We made a good impression. I told him if any need a lesson that I offer them for free.
July 25 - Hyclass RV in Havre Boucher.
This was another beautiful spot and a great jumping off point to explore part of the Fleur de Lis Trail and Isle Madame. There is a definite difference between northern Cape Breton and southern Cape Breton. The next day we explored the Ceilidh Trail up to and including Inverness. On this exploring trip we met artist, Doug Fraser, sampled Route 19 beer with lunch, checked out the Glenora Distillery, got kicked off some lady’s property for taking photos, and enjoyed a fabulous sunset.
Unfortunately, Morgan cut the pad on her rear left paw. It was bad enough that I had to bandage it and put a sock over it so she didn’t bother it. It also meant that I would have to keep this little puppy quiet for a few days while it mended. She was a trooper. It healed well.


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