Recently while chatting with a Newfoundlander from Deer Lake and I told him we have been here nearly two months.  His reply, “You are almost a local.”  

July 8 - Placentia

Today was a travel day with no specific destination in mind except that we 

Morgan on another swim day.

are officially heading towards Port Aux Basques where we will board the ferry for our 6-hour crossing to Sydney, NS.

We spent the morning dropping a card and book off at Verna’s then headed to the Fisherman’s Museum and Memorial Garden.  We enjoyed both very much.  

I have to admit that when I get home I may do some genealogy on the Hayward side of my family because are are many Haywards in St. Vincent’s.  They arrived here from Ireland so I am wondering if they originated in England where I think my rellys came from.  I could have found a whole lot of cousins.  

Did I ever mention in this blog about the pot holes?  Well, let me tell you, the roads in Newfoundland make the Dempster Highway look smooth.  Hahahaha.  I drive the roads in a leisurely fashion so that I can brake and dodge the holes but I have to admit that I sometimes nail them.  That aside, the scenery is magnificent.  

In the early afternoon we found ourselves Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve.  Morgan was not welcome there (and rightfully so because of the birds) so Karen walked out to Bird Island first then we swapped.  She stayed 

Wooden lobster traps piled everywhere.

with Morgan while I walked out.  It was a stunning sight.  It was a once-in-a-lifetime event for me.  I could not believe how emotional it was.  Believe me, you have to see it to believe it.  I am not a bird or wildlife photographer but I did manage to get a couple keepers on my camera.  I did not capture any of my iPhone.  

After the ecological reserve we started looking for a spot to boondock for the night.  We found a place close to the beach and near Placentia.  It was perfect.  The Cloudberry gin and tonic tasted superb when we got settled.  

July  9 - Glovertown

Pushing onward, neither of us can believe that we are in our last days on the

Our friend Nellie sending us off.

 Island of Newfoundland.  It’s a bit strange that we need to plan to be in a certain place, on a certain date, and at a certain time.  Consequently, neither of us are too motivated to get going in the morning.  Hahaha

Our first stop after leaving the beach was Sunset RV to take on some potable water and to dump the gray and black water.  

The more we talk to people, the more we realize there is so much to see and do and we will never get it all done.   We could have easily stayed in Placentia / Argentia for a day to explore these interesting little towns.  We moved onward to Glovertown where we stayed at Gordon’s Farm.  We loaded up on duck eggs.  

Pilley’s Island old town homes.

I have to say that my impression of farms and markets in Newfoundland is that they are not too common.  Their growing season in only two months long.  Dainne and Robert grow veggies, have a petting barn, chickens, ducks, and a cow for milk.  They, like all farmers, are hardworking and do their best to bring the best to the community.  

Morgan quite liked the room to run after her Kong and work up an appetite for supper.  It was a quiet evening at the Gordon Farm.  

July 10 - Glovertown to Pilley’s Island

I must admit that the Bumble Bee Inn and Brewery was a draw for me to go 

If this door could talk, just imagine the stories.

to Pilley’s Island.  It was an added bonus that it was near Triton and Brighton, two little seaside communities.  

Through Harvest Host we stayed in the huge parking lot at the brewery for the night.  We had a great view to the water below us.  Since we had a bit of time to spare before our reservations we, in the Karen and Janice fashion, headed out to explore the communities around us.  Triton was was quaint but it was Brighton that stole our hearts.  We had people come out of their driveways to invite us into their yards to get better shots of the old flakes.  

One fella also pointed out more old buildings that we would likely enjoy 

Bumble Bee Brewery flight of beer. 

photographing.  Oh my goodness, these two gentlemen had us laughing.  The laugh of the day was when the younger fella said, “Drinking wadder and vodka is like drinking me mudder’s milk.”  I thought I was going to fall over laughing.  The older gentleman was sipping Scotch for he is a Scotsman who married a local lady.  She stole his heart many years ago.  She, too, was sipping a Scotch while shelling lobster.  We had a laugh, got our shots and continued down the road to the next old buildings. 

There, a lady was on her porch hanging freshest washed shopping bags.  Her husband came out of the shed and gave us a bit of history of the old buildings.  Three generations of houses sat on the property.  A family member still has a modern house on the property and he likely doesn’t dismantle the old buildings for sentimental reasons.  Karen and I were two 

Newfoundland Tartan

people of hundreds that photograph these old shacks.  

On the way back to Minnie Home we stopped to exercise Morgan before we headed to the brewery for dinner and beer tasting.  As usual, she enjoyed her fetch time in the playground.  

At the brewery, my impression was not so great.  Much of the beer on the menu was not available to taste.  Plus, food that was listed on the website and piqued my interest was not available.  I settled for fish tacos that were OK and we shared a rhubarb-blueberry crumble for dessert.  

All in all, it was not a brewery that I would put at the top of my list.  

Nope, didn’t buy it but loved the label.

July 11 - Pilley’s Island to Trout River

We are heading back into Gros Morne National Park to hike the Tablelands.  When we were in Rocky Harbour, many weeks ago, the Tablelands were closed.  We are both excited to see the earth’s mantle in one of a few spots in the entire world.  

Our campground for the next three night will be Elephant Head RV Park.  Let me tell you, it was quite the road getting there.  Have I mentioned pot holes in Newfoundland?  Hahahaha

The RV Park was a beautiful little place.  It is relatively new.  They were just getting started when COVID hit so this is their first year of full operation. It is set above the fishing community of Trout River and only 10 minutes from the Tablelands hike.  The weather, well it is Newfoundland so the reports do not 

Knitted socks are very popular in Newfoundland.

mean a whole lot.  We read them and hope for the best.  

We arrived at Elephant Head and finished setting up just in time to get inside to avoid the rain drenching everything around us.  This has happened on many occasions in Newfoundland.  We finish whatever we are doing just in time for the clouds to dump beautiful rain upon the earth.  

In the evening we took a drive into Trout River to have a look.  We discovered the little harbour, a great beach, and a couple trails to check out tomorrow before we do the Tablelands.  We also poked in the local convenience stores.  It’s amazing the things they carry from packaged food to junk food to craft supplies to tools.  And let’s not forget the alcohol.  

Across from the campground is a ball diamond that doubles as a great playground for Morgan and her fetch toy.  Did I mention mosquitoes?  It’s getting warmer and the flying pests are starting to make an appearance.  

Wood stacks are very common.

That means I cover up and try to keep them out of my mouth.  

Sadly, when they bite me I react with such an itch that it drives me crazy.  C R A Z Y!!!  They bite Karen and suck her blood but she doesn’t get itchy.  They bite me and leave something behind that stays with me for days.  I have welts and some places it feels so lumpy that you’d think I got hit with a baseball. Fortunately, we are often on the go so we do not get bothered too often.  I have my trusty fly shatter for the trailer.  

July 12 - Hiking around Trout River

This morning we got organized for a hiking day.  That meant whatever 

A field of daisies overlooking Trout River.

clothes we might need, lunch, water, and provisions for Morgan too.

Our first stop was the ‘Old Man’ sea stack.  It is located about 400 metres from the ocean.  They say it is proof that the ocean was much higher and inland than it is now.  The ‘Old Woman’ use to stand next to the Old Man but she crumbled years ago.  He is getting more difficult to see because of the tree growth around him but he is there looking out to the ocean.  

We followed a path down to the harbour where the fishermen are switching from lobster to turbot.  Lobster pots are neatly stacked on the dock and nets are being loaded onto the boats.  We were told by a couple fishermen that 

Stop!  Heeding the sign on Pilley’s Island.

they would be heading out on the next good day.  Heading out to sea means heading into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, a very impressive body of water that sees more than its fair share of wicked storms.

Our next stop was the East Trail on the other side of Trout River which equates to about two kilometres north.  We climbed the stairs and hiked out to the head.  It was a beautiful hike with gorgeous views of Trout River Bay.  The weather was beautiful and warming up more than we expected.  

I was delighted by all the daisies waving in the wind.  The daisies remind me of my Grandma, Nellie.  In a borrowed dress from her sister, she and Grandpa trundled off to Nanaimo, BC to get married.  She did not have wedding flowers so on the way they stopped and picked a bouquet of daisies for Grandma to hold as they said their I do’s.  I truly felt surrounded by their spirits as I sat amongst the daisies on the hill.  

After eating our picnic lunch we headed to the Tablelands.  We did not quite

Abandoned airplane hangar from 
Ernst Harmon US Air Force Base, Stephenville, NL.

 know what to expect but we knew it was a fairly easy hike.  I was a bit concerned for Morgan and the heat but we were soon reassured by other hikers with dogs that there was plenty of streams and water for them to drink and cool off.

At the lookout Morgan found a pool of water to jump into and cool off. 

High and dry in Trout River.

The Tablelands were magnificent.  You will have to Google it and read about it.  The flowers, the rocks, the baroness of the land, and the history left me in awe.  

The evening was filled with local talent at the Interpretation Centre.  Doris and Tom.  They sing songs they love and Tom tells stories of Trout River when he was a kid.  They were not professionals but they endeared us with their tales and passion for entertaining.  

We chalked up another great day in Newfoundland.  I fell into bed tired and content with more great experiences.  

When I am old and can no longer travel, I know that I will be thinking of my 

The Tablelands, Gros Morne Park

days in Newfoundland and I will be grateful for the opportunity to fulfill another dream.  

July 13 - Woody Point

Today we were expecting rain and thought it would be a great day to explore Woody Point, about 15 minutes away from Trout River.  We are never disappointed when exploring these little communities.  There is always something to see or discover just around the corner.  We saw amazing scenery shrouded in fog, we visited the lighthouse, browsed craft stores, and had coffee in a local cafe.  This cafe actually made lattes!!!  

Newfoundland Moose.

Our only disappointment this day is that we popped into what we through was the local fish market and it turned out to be a grocery store with every fish item frozen.  Apparently we just missed the lobster by a day.  The season here is now closed.  We will continue looking for fresh fish as we travel around.  

This afternoon was laundry day, shower day, puttering day, and go out for dinner day.  We went to the Seaside Restaurant.  We had mussels, scallops, white wine and Cloudberry cheesecake.  MMMMMMMMmmmmmmm good. A walk on the beach with Morgan topped the evening.

And did I mention how much attention Morgan gets??  Everyone we meet has to pet her, comment on her cuteness, and get licked by her.  Of course, Morgan just sops up the love making it look like she never gets any attention at home.  Pathetic, I say.  🐾😂

July 14 - Trout River to Stephenville - Barachois Provincial Park

East Trail headland, Trout River.

So this is what has been happening with Morgan for many months.  She licks her paws incessantly.  I have tried switching proteins, I have tried probiotics.  I feel for her discomfort and how it must drive her crazy.  

My next attempt at trying to find her relief is by switching her to hydrolized protein dog kibble by Royal Canin.  It was a suggestion my vet made just before we left on vacation.  At that time I had put her on a duck only protein diet hoping for the best but  it has not worked.  

Stick pond reflections.

When my vet suggested the HP diet I had no idea that it was a prescription item.  I found a vet in Corner Brook who was willing to work with me if I could get a prescription from my vet.  As a precaution I made an appointment with Dr. Tipple in Corner Brook in the event that I could not coordinate with my vet in Cumberland.

I put it out to the universe to please make this work for me and Morgan.  The time change is 4.5 hours between Cumberland and Corner Brook so planning was important.  I was so thrilled when Dr. Champion’s office in Cumberland helped me so quickly by email. Everything was arranged the very next day.  I was guaranteed two big bags of food when I travelled through Corner Brook.  It was a huge relief to have the logistics fall into place flawlessly.  I am now putting my belief in this new food for Morgan and she finds some relief.  

Our first choice of camping spots near Corner Brook was at a Blow Me Down

Red, green and blue in Trout River.

 Provincial campground in Lark Harbour.  Knowing what the roads are like in Newfoundland, I had a gut feeling that we had better seek out some local knowledge about the road to the campground.  While I was getting Morgan’s new dog food Karen made a call to the tourist information centre. The information Karen relayed to me was that it was not a good idea to head out there.  Whew!  I am so glad I followed my gut. 

Secret Cove Brewery, Port Au Port.

Our second choice was Barachois Provincial Park near Stephenville.  We were happy to go here as well because we had planned to drive the French Ancestor’s Loop on one of your days.  

The campground is big and beautiful.  We are a short walk to the lake.  Morgan had a great swim to cool down and get some more exercise.  

BUT, the biting flies are driving me crazy!  Crazy I say.  Just setting up the trailer I have a million bites on my neck, my head and my shoulders.  The itch, I am sure is like Morgan’s itch on her feet.  It’s enough to drive you mad.  Afterbite, kind of works.  I also have a Benedryll spray that kind of worked.  My challenge is that the itch lasts for days.  The bumps last longer.  

It was nice to get inside the trailer and swat whatever flies made it in there and have a bug-free zone.  I totally covered up taking Morgan for her last walk of the evening.  

July 15 - The French Ancestor’s Loop

This was a glorious day.  Why?  Because it was not raining and we were 

Blue Beach crystal clear water.

expecting some rain.  It took us 8 hours to go about 150 kms.  We stop and take photographs.  We stop and chat with people.  We stop at craft stores and museums. And we stopped at the Secret Cove Brewery for a tasting and dinner.  

Our day started with photographing reflections in a pond and then an abandoned airplane hanger at the decommissioned Air Force base.  

Gas is back up to 2.02/litre and last week we paid 1.939/litre.

I made a stop at Home Hardware to get some double-sided tape and then we moseyed along the seaside highway.  

One stop we made will always be memorable.  It was in Mainland.  Just off shore is Red Island.  We wondered the schoolhouse museum - and by the way, they did a great job of putting it together.  

Quilts in Mainland on the French Ancestors Loop

It is here that some teenagers were just hanging in a little park.  Alex, the most vocal of the troupe asked if he could buy Morgan.  I laughed and said no.  He said he’d pay a cheeseburger and some fries.  

He then noticed my camera and asked it I would take a picture of all of them with Morgan.  I did but on my iPhone so I could post it and they could see it.  They all have ambitions to continue with school after grade 12.  

Beyond Mainland we headed towards Lourdes which drew me into Long Point where we discovered Blue Beach.  The peninsula itself is 22 kms long and nice of those kilometres are gravel but oh so worth it.  We had no idea that we would find a modest harbour and a row of summer cabins.  It was a piece of paradise.  The beach was solid rock of all sizes, rock shelves, and the water was crystal clear.  

Morgan had fun swimming in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, we had fun picking up rocks and soaking up some sun.  This place was breathtaking in its own right.  

Tree on a rock.

Our next stop was Secret Cove Brewery.  Sadly, they were out of cod tacos 

when it was our turn to order.  We settled for onion rings and Asian fries to 

accompany our flight of four beer.  

We have rated this brewery as one of our top three - Ragna Rock, Port Rexton, and Secret Cove.  

Silently, we are both realizing that our days on this beautiful Island that has filled our days with memories, gratitude, and appreciation are coming to a fast end.  July 19 we depart Port Aux Basque at 11:45 for Sydney, Nova Scotia.  

Our drive around the French Ancestor’s Loop was reminiscent of Cape Breton so I am looking forward to the next leg of this amazing journey I am on.