Recently while chatting with a Newfoundlander from Deer Lake and I told him we have been here nearly two months.  His reply, “You are almost a local.”  

July 8 - Placentia

Today was a travel day with no specific destination in mind except that we 

Morgan on another swim day.

are officially heading towards Port Aux Basques where we will board the ferry for our 6-hour crossing to Sydney, NS.

We spent the morning dropping a card and book off at Verna’s then headed to the Fisherman’s Museum and Memorial Garden.  We enjoyed both very much.  

I have to admit that when I get home I may do some genealogy on the Hayward side of my family because are are many Haywards in St. Vincent’s.  They arrived here from Ireland so I am wondering if they originated in England where I think my rellys came from.  I could have found a whole lot of cousins.  

Did I ever mention in this blog about the pot holes?  Well, let me tell you, the roads in Newfoundland make the Dempster Highway look smooth.  Hahahaha.  I drive the roads in a leisurely fashion so that I can brake and dodge the holes but I have to admit that I sometimes nail them.  That aside, the scenery is magnificent.  

In the early afternoon we found ourselves Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve.  Morgan was not welcome there (and rightfully so because of the birds) so Karen walked out to Bird Island first then we swapped.  She stayed 

Wooden lobster traps piled everywhere.

with Morgan while I walked out.  It was a stunning sight.  It was a once-in-a-lifetime event for me.  I could not believe how emotional it was.  Believe me, you have to see it to believe it.  I am not a bird or wildlife photographer but I did manage to get a couple keepers on my camera.  I did not capture any of my iPhone.  

After the ecological reserve we started looking for a spot to boondock for the night.  We found a place close to the beach and near Placentia.  It was perfect.  The Cloudberry gin and tonic tasted superb when we got settled.  

July  9 - Glovertown

Pushing onward, neither of us can believe that we are in our last days on the

Our friend Nellie sending us off.

 Island of Newfoundland.  It’s a bit strange that we need to plan to be in a certain place, on a certain date, and at a certain time.  Consequently, neither of us are too motivated to get going in the morning.  Hahaha

Our first stop after leaving the beach was Sunset RV to take on some potable water and to dump the gray and black water.  

The more we talk to people, the more we realize there is so much to see and do and we will never get it all done.   We could have easily stayed in Placentia / Argentia for a day to explore these interesting little towns.  We moved onward to Glovertown where we stayed at Gordon’s Farm.  We loaded up on duck eggs.  

Pilley’s Island old town homes.

I have to say that my impression of farms and markets in Newfoundland is that they are not too common.  Their growing season in only two months long.  Dainne and Robert grow veggies, have a petting barn, chickens, ducks, and a cow for milk.  They, like all farmers, are hardworking and do their best to bring the best to the community.  

Morgan quite liked the room to run after her Kong and work up an appetite for supper.  It was a quiet evening at the Gordon Farm.  

July 10 - Glovertown to Pilley’s Island

I must admit that the Bumble Bee Inn and Brewery was a draw for me to go 

If this door could talk, just imagine the stories.

to Pilley’s Island.  It was an added bonus that it was near Triton and Brighton, two little seaside communities.  

Through Harvest Host we stayed in the huge parking lot at the brewery for the night.  We had a great view to the water below us.  Since we had a bit of time to spare before our reservations we, in the Karen and Janice fashion, headed out to explore the communities around us.  Triton was was quaint but it was Brighton that stole our hearts.  We had people come out of their driveways to invite us into their yards to get better shots of the old flakes.  

One fella also pointed out more old buildings that we would likely enjoy 

Bumble Bee Brewery flight of beer. 

photographing.  Oh my goodness, these two gentlemen had us laughing.  The laugh of the day was when the younger fella said, “Drinking wadder and vodka is like drinking me mudder’s milk.”  I thought I was going to fall over laughing.  The older gentleman was sipping Scotch for he is a Scotsman who married a local lady.  She stole his heart many years ago.  She, too, was sipping a Scotch while shelling lobster.  We had a laugh, got our shots and continued down the road to the next old buildings. 

There, a lady was on her porch hanging freshest washed shopping bags.  Her husband came out of the shed and gave us a bit of history of the old buildings.  Three generations of houses sat on the property.  A family member still has a modern house on the property and he likely doesn’t dismantle the old buildings for sentimental reasons.  Karen and I were two 

Newfoundland Tartan

people of hundreds that photograph these old shacks.  

On the way back to Minnie Home we stopped to exercise Morgan before we headed to the brewery for dinner and beer tasting.  As usual, she enjoyed her fetch time in the playground.  

At the brewery, my impression was not so great.  Much of the beer on the menu was not available to taste.  Plus, food that was listed on the website and piqued my interest was not available.  I settled for fish tacos that were OK and we shared a rhubarb-blueberry crumble for dessert.  

All in all, it was not a brewery that I would put at the top of my list.  

Nope, didn’t buy it but loved the label.

July 11 - Pilley’s Island to Trout River

We are heading back into Gros Morne National Park to hike the Tablelands.  When we were in Rocky Harbour, many weeks ago, the Tablelands were closed.  We are both excited to see the earth’s mantle in one of a few spots in the entire world.  

Our campground for the next three night will be Elephant Head RV Park.  Let me tell you, it was quite the road getting there.  Have I mentioned pot holes in Newfoundland?  Hahahaha

The RV Park was a beautiful little place.  It is relatively new.  They were just getting started when COVID hit so this is their first year of full operation. It is set above the fishing community of Trout River and only 10 minutes from the Tablelands hike.  The weather, well it is Newfoundland so the reports do not 

Knitted socks are very popular in Newfoundland.

mean a whole lot.  We read them and hope for the best.  

We arrived at Elephant Head and finished setting up just in time to get inside to avoid the rain drenching everything around us.  This has happened on many occasions in Newfoundland.  We finish whatever we are doing just in time for the clouds to dump beautiful rain upon the earth.  

In the evening we took a drive into Trout River to have a look.  We discovered the little harbour, a great beach, and a couple trails to check out tomorrow before we do the Tablelands.  We also poked in the local convenience stores.  It’s amazing the things they carry from packaged food to junk food to craft supplies to tools.  And let’s not forget the alcohol.  

Across from the campground is a ball diamond that doubles as a great playground for Morgan and her fetch toy.  Did I mention mosquitoes?  It’s getting warmer and the flying pests are starting to make an appearance.  

Wood stacks are very common.

That means I cover up and try to keep them out of my mouth.  

Sadly, when they bite me I react with such an itch that it drives me crazy.  C R A Z Y!!!  They bite Karen and suck her blood but she doesn’t get itchy.  They bite me and leave something behind that stays with me for days.  I have welts and some places it feels so lumpy that you’d think I got hit with a baseball. Fortunately, we are often on the go so we do not get bothered too often.  I have my trusty fly shatter for the trailer.  

July 12 - Hiking around Trout River

This morning we got organized for a hiking day.  That meant whatever 

A field of daisies overlooking Trout River.

clothes we might need, lunch, water, and provisions for Morgan too.

Our first stop was the ‘Old Man’ sea stack.  It is located about 400 metres from the ocean.  They say it is proof that the ocean was much higher and inland than it is now.  The ‘Old Woman’ use to stand next to the Old Man but she crumbled years ago.  He is getting more difficult to see because of the tree growth around him but he is there looking out to the ocean.  

We followed a path down to the harbour where the fishermen are switching from lobster to turbot.  Lobster pots are neatly stacked on the dock and nets are being loaded onto the boats.  We were told by a couple fishermen that 

Stop!  Heeding the sign on Pilley’s Island.

they would be heading out on the next good day.  Heading out to sea means heading into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, a very impressive body of water that sees more than its fair share of wicked storms.

Our next stop was the East Trail on the other side of Trout River which equates to about two kilometres north.  We climbed the stairs and hiked out to the head.  It was a beautiful hike with gorgeous views of Trout River Bay.  The weather was beautiful and warming up more than we expected.  

I was delighted by all the daisies waving in the wind.  The daisies remind me of my Grandma, Nellie.  In a borrowed dress from her sister, she and Grandpa trundled off to Nanaimo, BC to get married.  She did not have wedding flowers so on the way they stopped and picked a bouquet of daisies for Grandma to hold as they said their I do’s.  I truly felt surrounded by their spirits as I sat amongst the daisies on the hill.  

After eating our picnic lunch we headed to the Tablelands.  We did not quite

Abandoned airplane hangar from 
Ernst Harmon US Air Force Base, Stephenville, NL.

 know what to expect but we knew it was a fairly easy hike.  I was a bit concerned for Morgan and the heat but we were soon reassured by other hikers with dogs that there was plenty of streams and water for them to drink and cool off.

At the lookout Morgan found a pool of water to jump into and cool off. 

High and dry in Trout River.

The Tablelands were magnificent.  You will have to Google it and read about it.  The flowers, the rocks, the baroness of the land, and the history left me in awe.  

The evening was filled with local talent at the Interpretation Centre.  Doris and Tom.  They sing songs they love and Tom tells stories of Trout River when he was a kid.  They were not professionals but they endeared us with their tales and passion for entertaining.  

We chalked up another great day in Newfoundland.  I fell into bed tired and content with more great experiences.  

When I am old and can no longer travel, I know that I will be thinking of my 

The Tablelands, Gros Morne Park

days in Newfoundland and I will be grateful for the opportunity to fulfill another dream.  

July 13 - Woody Point

Today we were expecting rain and thought it would be a great day to explore Woody Point, about 15 minutes away from Trout River.  We are never disappointed when exploring these little communities.  There is always something to see or discover just around the corner.  We saw amazing scenery shrouded in fog, we visited the lighthouse, browsed craft stores, and had coffee in a local cafe.  This cafe actually made lattes!!!  

Newfoundland Moose.

Our only disappointment this day is that we popped into what we through was the local fish market and it turned out to be a grocery store with every fish item frozen.  Apparently we just missed the lobster by a day.  The season here is now closed.  We will continue looking for fresh fish as we travel around.  

This afternoon was laundry day, shower day, puttering day, and go out for dinner day.  We went to the Seaside Restaurant.  We had mussels, scallops, white wine and Cloudberry cheesecake.  MMMMMMMMmmmmmmm good. A walk on the beach with Morgan topped the evening.

And did I mention how much attention Morgan gets??  Everyone we meet has to pet her, comment on her cuteness, and get licked by her.  Of course, Morgan just sops up the love making it look like she never gets any attention at home.  Pathetic, I say.  🐾😂

July 14 - Trout River to Stephenville - Barachois Provincial Park

East Trail headland, Trout River.

So this is what has been happening with Morgan for many months.  She licks her paws incessantly.  I have tried switching proteins, I have tried probiotics.  I feel for her discomfort and how it must drive her crazy.  

My next attempt at trying to find her relief is by switching her to hydrolized protein dog kibble by Royal Canin.  It was a suggestion my vet made just before we left on vacation.  At that time I had put her on a duck only protein diet hoping for the best but  it has not worked.  

Stick pond reflections.

When my vet suggested the HP diet I had no idea that it was a prescription item.  I found a vet in Corner Brook who was willing to work with me if I could get a prescription from my vet.  As a precaution I made an appointment with Dr. Tipple in Corner Brook in the event that I could not coordinate with my vet in Cumberland.

I put it out to the universe to please make this work for me and Morgan.  The time change is 4.5 hours between Cumberland and Corner Brook so planning was important.  I was so thrilled when Dr. Champion’s office in Cumberland helped me so quickly by email. Everything was arranged the very next day.  I was guaranteed two big bags of food when I travelled through Corner Brook.  It was a huge relief to have the logistics fall into place flawlessly.  I am now putting my belief in this new food for Morgan and she finds some relief.  

Our first choice of camping spots near Corner Brook was at a Blow Me Down

Red, green and blue in Trout River.

 Provincial campground in Lark Harbour.  Knowing what the roads are like in Newfoundland, I had a gut feeling that we had better seek out some local knowledge about the road to the campground.  While I was getting Morgan’s new dog food Karen made a call to the tourist information centre. The information Karen relayed to me was that it was not a good idea to head out there.  Whew!  I am so glad I followed my gut. 

Secret Cove Brewery, Port Au Port.

Our second choice was Barachois Provincial Park near Stephenville.  We were happy to go here as well because we had planned to drive the French Ancestor’s Loop on one of your days.  

The campground is big and beautiful.  We are a short walk to the lake.  Morgan had a great swim to cool down and get some more exercise.  

BUT, the biting flies are driving me crazy!  Crazy I say.  Just setting up the trailer I have a million bites on my neck, my head and my shoulders.  The itch, I am sure is like Morgan’s itch on her feet.  It’s enough to drive you mad.  Afterbite, kind of works.  I also have a Benedryll spray that kind of worked.  My challenge is that the itch lasts for days.  The bumps last longer.  

It was nice to get inside the trailer and swat whatever flies made it in there and have a bug-free zone.  I totally covered up taking Morgan for her last walk of the evening.  

July 15 - The French Ancestor’s Loop

This was a glorious day.  Why?  Because it was not raining and we were 

Blue Beach crystal clear water.

expecting some rain.  It took us 8 hours to go about 150 kms.  We stop and take photographs.  We stop and chat with people.  We stop at craft stores and museums. And we stopped at the Secret Cove Brewery for a tasting and dinner.  

Our day started with photographing reflections in a pond and then an abandoned airplane hanger at the decommissioned Air Force base.  

Gas is back up to 2.02/litre and last week we paid 1.939/litre.

I made a stop at Home Hardware to get some double-sided tape and then we moseyed along the seaside highway.  

One stop we made will always be memorable.  It was in Mainland.  Just off shore is Red Island.  We wondered the schoolhouse museum - and by the way, they did a great job of putting it together.  

Quilts in Mainland on the French Ancestors Loop

It is here that some teenagers were just hanging in a little park.  Alex, the most vocal of the troupe asked if he could buy Morgan.  I laughed and said no.  He said he’d pay a cheeseburger and some fries.  

He then noticed my camera and asked it I would take a picture of all of them with Morgan.  I did but on my iPhone so I could post it and they could see it.  They all have ambitions to continue with school after grade 12.  

Beyond Mainland we headed towards Lourdes which drew me into Long Point where we discovered Blue Beach.  The peninsula itself is 22 kms long and nice of those kilometres are gravel but oh so worth it.  We had no idea that we would find a modest harbour and a row of summer cabins.  It was a piece of paradise.  The beach was solid rock of all sizes, rock shelves, and the water was crystal clear.  

Morgan had fun swimming in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, we had fun picking up rocks and soaking up some sun.  This place was breathtaking in its own right.  

Tree on a rock.

Our next stop was Secret Cove Brewery.  Sadly, they were out of cod tacos 

when it was our turn to order.  We settled for onion rings and Asian fries to 

accompany our flight of four beer.  

We have rated this brewery as one of our top three - Ragna Rock, Port Rexton, and Secret Cove.  

Silently, we are both realizing that our days on this beautiful Island that has filled our days with memories, gratitude, and appreciation are coming to a fast end.  July 19 we depart Port Aux Basque at 11:45 for Sydney, Nova Scotia.  

Our drive around the French Ancestor’s Loop was reminiscent of Cape Breton so I am looking forward to the next leg of this amazing journey I am on.  

 Newfie Sayings

Ow’s she cuttin’, me cocky?   - How are you, my friend?

Whatta yat? - What are you doing?

Who knit ya?  - Who’s your mother? Who’s your parents?

I just dies at you. - You make me laugh.

G’wan! - You’re joking, right!

You B Talkin’? - Really?

Grate’s Cove handmade rugs.

June 25 - Travel Day

We always hug the coast when we travel.  We travelled from Elliston to Winterton.  We loved the little towns that we travelled through.  We purchased cod and scallops in Dildo, drove through Heart’s Delight, checked out a gift store at Heart’s Contentand finally arrived at our great campsite in Winterton.  There was absolutely no cell service and we had a little bit of unsecured wifi.  We actually had to drive down the road to find cell service so we could make campground reservations in St. John’s because we were coming up to July 1 weekend.  Then we drove almost 10kms back to the campground.  

This was a neat campground.  It is well set up for families and they actually 

Part of the 17th Century rock walls in Grate’s Cove.

rent or lease sites for the season.  Each leased site has been personalized with fences, lights, flowers, and more.  The people we talked to said it was a great get-a-way for the family every weekend in the summer.  The kids were having a blast making summer memories.  

I captured two puffins :)

June 26 - Exploring Another of The Many Peninsulas

Today was a fantastic day of exploring.  Our first stop was Hant’s Harbour.  It was a picturesque little place so we really didn’t get far the first couple of hours.  We ended up chatting to a couple fellas who had purchased a house across from the water.  We are bumping into so many people who are moving back home after retiring or just retiring early and moving here to get out of the mad rush of the big city.  They are loving the easy pace of life.  

Next stop was Grate’s Cove.  This is a 500-year-old community that is known for it’s 25 kms of Irish rock fences. Here we happened upon a resident

Another beautiful evening.

 named Carol.  I had pulled over to take a photo and she thought I was someone else in a red truck.  Well, Karen and I were there for a half hour as she shared stories of when she was a kid and the ice bergs coming into the bay, the men working hard at fishing, and how her Mom would cook a Sunday dinner.  Oh my, she was so very interesting.  We told her that she and her three sisters needed to write a book.

We continued around the tip of the peninsula to Bay de Verde.  Our first impression was what the heck is here to see and then we drove through the cut in the rock and were met with vistas of this charming community that was nestled between two shores.  It is a thriving fishing community.  You can a tell by the size of the marina, the number of boats and the number of school busses.  

Need I say more?  I 💜 chocolate.  

We had packed lunch and decided to eat here,  enjoy the stunning headlands, and take a few pictures.  

The rest of the peninsula was dotted with hamlets in each cove about 10 minutes apart. While it was a nice drive, the communities didn’t offer us the quaintness we were expecting.  We expected something more like Trinity in one or two of the towns but no such luck.  This was good because it got us back to the campsite at a decent hour.  We have a tendency to doddle when the photo ops are there.  

June 27 - Winterton to St. John’s

This was another travel day but one that was short for to a location we are 

Netting capelin for the folks on shore.

going to stay for a week.  There is so much to see and do around St. John’s.

As we were nearing the location we both had our eye on the truck GPS plus, Lucy, the lady in the truck who speaks to us, was telling us to head into an industrial area of town.  We were both quiet, not saying a word, wondering where the heck we were going to end up.  It’s true.  We were in an industrial section of town but in this part of town, the Mount Pearl area, 

Lupins, beautiful lupins everywhere.

was a gem of a campground with wooded sites.  It was delightful.  It’s new.  Showers, washers, and dryers are free.  The bonus is it’s proximity to the stores we needed - Costco, Canadian Tire, and Dominion Food Store (the Newfoundland version of President’s Choice).  For all we had to do, and wanted to do in the St. John’s area, this was a wonderful location and surprisingly quiet.  

We got set up and surprise, surprise.  We were neighbours to Les Fromages, the people we met in Elliston.  At the time we met them in Elliston we didn’t

Amelia Earhart in Harbour Grace.

 know their names.  We only knew one had a t-shirt on that read, FROMAGE.  Hence the nickname, Les Fromages.  We soon learned it was Paul and Pat in one site and Greg and Paulette in the other.  Oh my goodness, they were the best neighbours.  

Once settled and after saying hello to our new friends, Karen and I set out to do our shopping chores.  By the time we were done, we were absolutely exhausted.  BUT, we had food!  We replenished the fridge and the empty galley shelves.  

Historic Harbour Grace office building

Paul and Pat popped over and asked if we had any plans for dinner tomorrow night.  We did not and were invited to join them for chips and wings.  How sweet was that?

We had bought scallops in Dildo so Karen made a salad and I cooked the scallops.  Dinner was delicious.  We ate every last scallop which was actually enough for two meals.  

Exhausted, I practically crawled into bed with my clothes on.  

June 28 - Touring St. John’s Peninsula 

This morning we were up and out the door early.  3:30 early to catch the sunrise at Cape Spear.  We were not the only ones there.  I was delighted to

Gin tasting time at Newfoundland Distillery.

 see a few others out to see the sunrise.  There was also a taxi driver who was hired to bring his fare to Cape Spear for the sunrise.  He was sitting in his cab patiently waiting.  One of my favourite sayings - it was stunning.  

Back at the campsite we did a few chores and had a nap before starting the second half of the day driving to Pouch Cove (pronounce Pooch) to check out the seaside and the countryside.  We can tell we are near a city.  The fishing villages have 

Brigus Harbour.

changed to subdivisions.   The houses are more modern and less salt box looking.  As we drive through the communities there are smatterings of old boathouses.  It’s nothing like the northern communities we have visited.  

One stop we made was at a beach called Middle Cove.  We were excited because the capelin were within reach for people to catch. That means the whales are near.  The way it works here goes like this - fog.  When the fog retreats the capelin come in.  They are feed fish for humans and whales.

The iris’ are blooming now.

  The capelin come close to shore to spawn and the whales follow.  It was a great sign to see capelin at Middle Cove.  That meant the whales would be coming soon.  Also, people catch capelin to eat.  

We finished our little tour by visiting Quidi Vidi a little community in St. John’s.  Sadly, Morgan was not allowed on their deck because to get there she would have to walk through the restaurant.  We walked around and took a few pictures.  We met a fella who was filming for the Great Britain version of the Amazing Race.  It was very interesting chatting with him.  His next assignment was going to be in Alaska.  

Our Les Fromage neighbours had invited us for dinner so we arrived at their campsite at 18:00.  The first question they asked was, “Where is Morgan?” Well, the truth is I had may hands full with drinks, chairs, and food.  My plan 

Helpful locals on Bell Island.

was to go back and get Morgan and her bed, which I did.  

I think Morgan is secretly in love with Paul.  

Oh my goodness we had a great night.  Everyone had  too much to eat - chips (French fries), chicken wings, capelin, and vegges.  I played guitar with Greg.  Everyone had a fun night filled with stories, laughter, and music.  Thank you, Paul and Pat, and Greg and Paulette!!

June 29 - Touring The Seaside to Harbour Grace

Today was another tour day.  One of our goals was to head to Newfoundland Distillery to taste their gins - Seaweed Gin and Cloudberry 

Headland at Bell Island Lighthouse.

Gin.   I phoned in advance to see if Morgan was welcome on the deck and she was.  

This time to Harbour Grace, Brigus, and Clark’s Beach.  Brigus was the first stop and it was a bit confusing when we entered but in the Janice and Karen way, we pulled up to a couple of construction workers and asked them how they were doing and could they point us in the direction of ‘town’.  One said are you tryin’ to get outta town, we said no, we are trying to get into town.  The udder fella said, “Follow me.”  

We did and he took us right to a parking spot.  He also went one step further.  

Morgan and Karen having a moment.

He popped into Town Hall and got us a walking map of Brigus so we couldn’t get lost again.  The kindness in NL just never stops.  

We poked around and took some pictures before having lunch on the deck of a little cafe.  We had fish cakes, toutons, and beans.  It was my first time having a touton and it reminded me of a flatter baking powder biscuit that my grandma use to make.  

It was funny because we knew Newfoundland Distillery was in Clarke’s Beach but we didn’t exactly look up Clarke’s Beach on the map so we only had a general idea and that idea came as we drove the TCH (Trans Canada Highway) into St. John’s.  So, you can imagine the look on our faces when we left Brigus and a few kilometres down the road was Clarke’s Beach.    We weren’t exactly ready to taste gin so we carried on to Harbour Grace.  

Harbour Grace was a pleasant little town.  There is a lot of history on the 

Lance Cove, Bell Island.

waterfront plus it is the departure point for Amelia Earhart when she attempted her Trans Atlantic Flight.  I am sure I have watched all the Amelia Earhart movies and listened to any latest news to see if she or her plane could be located.  It is still a great mystery to this day.  

Surprisingly, there is a grounded ship in Harbour Grace, the SS Kyle.  She broke free of her moorings during a storm in February, 1967 and there she rests, high and dry.  It is a sight to see.  She is 220 ft steamship.  The salvage job was deemed too expensive.

Amazing coastline at Grebe’s Nest.

Now it was time to taste some gin so we doubled back to Clarke’s Beach.  We were offered a flight of three or four tastings.  They offer two gins, vodka, and rum.  I chose Seaweed Gin, Clourberry Gin, and Rhubarb Vodka.  Karen chose the same but added a fourth, the Chaga rum.  Our tastings were served with selected tonics/mixer on the side.   We ordered a meat plate to accompany our libations.  

We both agreed that the rhubarb vodka and the seaweed gin lacked in flavour but the cloudberry was great.  Karen also loved the Chaga rum served with ginger beer.  We bought a bottle of the cloudberry to bring back to Minnie Home so we could enjoy a tasty G & T on a hot summer day.  

We had a fabulous day and we are always delighted with what we learn of 

The beach rocks have been tumbled for centuries.

these amazing little communities that are rich in history.  Plus, we are taking advantage of so many photo ops.  

June 30 - A Fog Day

We had a leisurely morning before heading out.  Our camping neighbours like to say good morning to Morgan and check up on how us girls are doing. They are so kind.  We get a lot of laughs in.  This particular morning was hot and humid.  I actually thought if it gets any worse I may have to shut myself in the trailer with the AC on.  I admit that I am not use to humidity.  Plus the temperatures here have been cool one day, hot and humid the next.  The weather reports don’t seem to indicate fog but we are in a province that can experience all four seasons in one day.  Hahahaha

Newfoundland is simplicity.

Off we went towards Whitless Bay.  Our goals was to spot whales.  We didn’t get too far down Highway 10 before we met fog.  You never know if you are going to drive through it or whether it is blanketing the entire coast.  Today it was the coast.  We stopped in Whitless Bay and looked at the fog.  We toured a few other little communities to view the fog and we ended in Ferryland to view the fog.  We were not about to give up.  Determined to take some pictures, we walked out to Ferryland Head Lighthouse.  It was surprisingly beautiful in the fog.  We could hear sheep baaaa-ing on a neighbouring island but we could not see them.  A few other determined people were out there too.  

Today is grand-daughter Amelia’s birthday.  Happy, happy birthday, Amelia.  

Back at camp we had dinner then joined our friends around their campfire.  We were also joined by two new neighbours, Ray and Gail, from Cambridge, ON.  The stories, the laughter, and the wine with great new friends made for a great ending to another wonderful day.

July 1 - Canada Day

Today we purposely chose to head away from St.John’s to avoid crowds, 

Old and weathered lighthouse paint.

heat and fireworks.  We headed to Bell Island.  The idea of Bell Island was planted in our minds by another camping neighbour who had spent a day there and loved it.  So off we went.  

The ferry cost $11.25 return and departed from Portugal Cove at 08:30.  We decided to catch an early one to be able to do everything in a day.  

Our first mission was to find a map of the island and the not-to-miss highlights.  As with every community there is very little open to ask questions and get information BUT, on Bell Island there was a convenience store open.  Karen popped in to ask where we could find a map of Bell Island.  We were directed to turn left, turn left, go down the street and before the church we would find a house with maps.  Sure enough, we found it.  

Rust and brick in the city.

Maps were offered for $2 and it was the honour system.  Karen was popping the money in the bin when Jim came out.  We chatted for a bit and found out his dog was named Bandit because he stole Jim’s socks.  Jim was born on Bell Island but when the mine shut down his father moved the family to Ontario to find work.  Jim was 12. Many of the families moved to Cambridge, ON.  Jim worked in the hospitality industry and from what we gathered he worked his way up the ladder and worked all over the world.  He said that one day he came home to Bell Island, 24 years ago, and never left except for four times in those 24 years.  We figure Jim is in his 80’s.  He is quite the character and his map is just as interesting.  

Bell Island is 9.7 kms long and 3.5 kms wide.  We started our adventure at the Bell Island Lighthouse.  The scenery is gorgeous.  The coastline is jaw-dropping.  The water is crystal clear.  Sadly, due to COVID the restaurant/interpretation center was closed.  That didn’t stop us from taking pictures.  Morgan had a blast too.  

Heading away from the lighthouse I noticed a fella pointing out something 

Ferryland Harbour.

to some people.  I figured he was a local so I naturally pulled up and we struck up a conversation with Tony, Terry and Brenda.  Tony was just visiting but use to live on Bell Island.  Terry and Brenda live on Bell Island in the most beautiful red house overlooking the water.  (No, gosh darn, I did not take a picture of it)

So here is the story.  Tony knows Fox (whose real name is Raymond) who gives tours in the mine.  Tony called and left a message for Fox to give us the greatest tour and to welcome Morgan too.  My goodness we were laughing so hard at what just happened.  

Fraser and Neil at the dig.

We drove directly to the mine to enquire when Ray would be doing the next tour.  The answer was I don’t know.  It depends on the people coming.  Hahahaha.  Then I asked about Morgan and they said no.  Sadly, we had to pass on the mine tour because it was too hot to leave Morgan in the car.  Later in the day we did receive a phone call from Fox and I explained that we had to pass because of the dog.  

We made our way to Lance Beach.  This is the sight of “the only community in North America to take a direct hit from a torpedo fired by a Nazi U-boat during World War II.”  This was September 1942.  It was a great little spot to have lunch, learn some more history and take a few pictures.

Next stop was a walk to Grebe’s Nest.  We did not know what to expect but 

17th Century garden site.

off we went.  It was a great place for Morgan to have some off-leash time as we walked toward the ocean.  What we found was amazing coastline and a tunnel from one beach to the next.  Surprisingly one beach was treacherous for boats to land and the next beach over was perfect with the round-tumbled rocks for a dory to land.  Back in the day, fishermen would land their dory on the beach, load the catch of the day in baskets, and horses would haul the catch up the cliff.  The problem was getting the 

Tired pilings.

men up.  Two ingenious brothers decided to blast a tunnel from one beach to the other because one was great for landing their boats and the other was a way for them to get home.  

You will not find this little gem in Tourism Newfoundland because parts of the trail are dangerous with loose shale and slippery in other places.  We, of course, enjoyed the adventure and one of Bell Island’s best kept secrets.  

We had seen all we could see.  And by the way, there was only one place to get food on Bell Island and that was at Dick’s on the beach.  We will never learn.  When we head out in the morning sometimes we think we will find coffee on the way.  We keep fooling ourselves - we NEVER find coffee.  Hahahaha.  Today was no different.  By the time we got to Dick’s we were well past coffee and ready for dinner.  We had fish and chips at the outside picnic tables while we waited for the ferry.  

It was a fabulous day of exploring but then what day isn’t.  

Gossip and liar benches.

July 2 - St. John’s

Today is a city day and chore day.  We decided we would leave Morgan at home while we headed into St. John’s to walk the streets and take some pictures.  The plan was to head in early but that got derailed and we headed out at 10 instead of nine.  It was warming up fast.  We were lucky to find free parking at the waterfront where it was central to the area we wanted to walk.  Off we went.  

Lighthouse keeper’s windows.

We browsed a few stores and made a couple purchases.  The big purchase for me was new shoes to replace some old worn out shoes.  We were snapping a few pictures but I have to be honest, I just wasn’t feeling it in the city.  We decided to stop for a coffee and bagel.  Conscious of the time we then headed to the jellybean houses.  

Now I have to tell you, I had heard about Jellybean Row.  There is no such thing on the map or in St. John’s.  Jellybean Row refers to the brightly coloured row houses that you find on several streets in St. John’s.  

Karen and I were snapping pictures at a few houses when a young lady came out of her house.  Karen mentioned that she must live in one of the 

It’s flower time in Newfoundland.

most photographed areas because of all the colourful houses.  The conversation turned to her house and how excited she was to have purchased and moved in just a month ago.  It turns out that Ria is from Owen Sound, near where Karen lives and her sister lives on Vancouver Island in Langford.  She invited us in to have a look and to see the fabulous view she has from her deck.  We were tickled that we got to see inside and the quaintness of her new home.  

Now it was really time to head home for Morgan and to do chores.  The outside and inside of the trailer needed done as did the truck.  I tackled the outside chores and Karen tackled the inside.  I believe our neighbours loved watching us work so hard while they relaxed.  Hahahaha

At 17:00 we packed up our cleaning stuff to get ready for dinner.  Karen had a Zoom friend from a course she did invite us over for dinner.  She graciously invited Morgan too.  We had great conversation, delicious food, 

Jellybean houses in St. John’s.

and before we knew it, it was midnight.  Mary and John, thank you for opening your home to us.  It will be a night to remember with your family stories.  

July 3 - Do Nothing Day

Today was meant to be a do nothing day and a writing day for me.  It didn’t quite go as planned :)  We slept in later than usual then said good-bye to Les Fromage friends.  We were not expecting to see them again in our travels because they are leaving the island on July 13.  Of course it was a long good-bye as we kept talking and talking and talking.  It was sad to see them go and it was very quiet after they left.   

After breakfast I focused on writing postcards and Karen finished the inside 

of the truck.  We also made a shopping list knowing that it is the last time we will be near so many choices for quite a while.  Fueling the truck at Costco was high on the list since gas was only $2.09 / litre there.  

The do-nothing day went by so fast and I didn’t get much in the way of 

Cape Race Lighthouse.  Find Karen.

writing done.  Oh well, there is always tomorrow - or is there????

July 4 - St. John’s to St. Vincent’s-St. Stephen’s-Peter’s River

We had heard from a couple people that we NEED to go to St. Vincent’s.  It’s where the whales come in to feed on the capelin and they are so close you can almost touch them.  Well, we were all over that idea.  I joined a FB group to monitor what was happening there and to see what was available for camping.  A couple people responded to camp at the interpretation centre at “the gut”.  One of the ladies who responded was Verna Hayward.  HAH!  Same last name as me.  She married Fergus Hayward.  We joked about being related.  

Newfoundland is full of colour.

Our mission on the way to St. Vincent’s was to visit Ferryland again without the fog.  We wanted to photograph the harbour and to see the archeological dig happening.  Thankfully, there was no fog and we had a great time in Ferryland.  We got to meet Neil and Fraser at the dig.  Fraser is a student in St. John’s and Neil is a resident who has been working the site for 31 years digging is the good months.  They have uncovered over 2 million artifacts from the 17th century.  It was pretty cool.  

We ventured onwards to St. Vincent’s and encountered what we think is the 

A small portion of my new quilt.

worst pot-holed road so far and more fog but we made it.  I was very tired from the focus of driving in fog and dodging potholes.  It was nice to settle in for the night.  

When we pulled into the recommended site for boondocking we noticed a couple people cutting and stacking wood.  We both had the idea that we can help them but not today.  Tomorrow will work better when we are rested.  I was in bed fairly early after walking Morgan on the beach.  

The beach, did I mention the beach.  It is beautiful even in fog.  The rollers are mesmerizing and the rocks on the beach compell you to search for the perfect one.  They have been tumbled for centuries.  

Today is also grand-daughter Meabh’s seventh birthday.  Happy Birthday, Meabh.  Glad I got to FT you.  

Crashing waves at St. Vincent’s

July 5 - St. Vincent’s 

We had a pretty chill morning and got to meet Toni the lawnmower guy.  He is the town worker who keeps the area we are camping in looking great.  He also does the public washrooms that are there for us campers.  Last night we were the only ones here.  

While Karen was chatting with Tony, I noticed the lady and fella getting ready to cut and stack wood.  I went over and told them we wanted to help and she looked at me a bit funny but said sure!  

Pauline is visiting her mother from Nova Scotia.  Dan is her brother who is cutting the wood for their mother.  Karen and I donned our work clothes and gloves to work alongside Pauline and Dan until he could no longer cut from being pooped.  He also needed to give his back a rest.  We met their mother, Geraldine, who is also called Minnie.  She’s in her eighties and burns eight cords of wood each year.  

Boy O Boy, did we have fun helping, chatting, and getting to know our new friends.  After stacking, we had a beer on the deck and watched a few whales blowing but too far off shore to photograph.  

Karen put some lunch together so we could eat before heading to the 

Cape Race Lighthouse in the fog.

beach.  Before we sat down to eat, Tony was checking on us and wanted to give us some information.  There is a free show on Saturday or Sunday, he said but didn’t know for sure which date.  Then he spied the Mayor so drove his quad over to ask.  Next thing I know the Mayor pulls up to the trailer and asks who is Janice.  Well, I’m wondering how she knows my name.  It turns out it’s Verna Hayward from the FB group and she is the Mayor.  Well we had a good laugh about that and a great chat about what there was to do in the area.  Verna is very passionate about what her community has to offer.  

Meet Mayor Verna Hayward.

Karen and I had sour snack then headed to the beach to spot whales.  We and a few other people spied a couple but they were not too close to shore. We had a lovely evening on the beach and then decided to head to Minnie Home to get a drink and watch the sun go down.  

Just after we settled into our chairs on the beach a young lady, Grace, came up to show us a picture she took.  It was us sitting in our chairs with the sun about to set.  We had a long chat with her and her boyfriend.  After they went back to their RV we noticed it was getting windy and cool so we moved off the beach to the trailer.  There was a fella that Karen met earlier, Barry, camping in his 1970 VW van near us so we invited him to join us for a sip of wine.  He said yes but was going for a short walk first.  

Now there are six RV’s parked around us, it’s getting late, and Karen, Barry 

Stacking wood with Dan and Pauline.

and I are enjoying a glass of wine.  Tony, the lawnmower guy and his son pull up on their quads to empty the trash.  Well, the stories started flying, I barely understood Tony, and we were falling out of our chairs laughing.  I had sore sides from laughing so hard.  What a fantastic day.  It could not have ended any better.  

July 6 - Cape Race

Today we decided to double back towards Trepassy and see what we could not see in the fog on our way to St. Vincent.  Verna Hayward was instrumental in inspiring us to go and see how beautiful it is.  We left at 07:30 and we didn’t get far before we were 

Cape Race is stunning.

pulling over to take pictures.  We finally made it to Cape Race Lighthouse and there was fog.

The lighthouse keeper at Cape Race was more than that.  He also was a wireless operator meaning he would send and receive Morse Code messages.  This location is famous for being the receiver of the message from the Titanic that it has struck a berg.  They in turn were relaying the messages to nearby ships to assist.  

The junior wireless operator who was there and received the initial message from the Titanic has been recorded recounting his memories of that night.  It was a moving recording to listen to an old man’s voice recount something

Snail shells and rocks.

 that happened when he was a teenager.  

In the interpretive center Karen noticed a quilt.  Quilts are HUGE in Newfoundland.  She knew I was looking for a blanket with the Newfoundland Labrador tartan.  This quilt has it all and more.  I bought it and it is a story.  I found out the name of the lady who made it.  It is 81-year-old Alice Curtis.  I also got her phone 

Iris and white houses.

number.  When I got back to the trailer I telephoned her to tell her how much I loved it.  She said it is likely one of her last because of her age.  

On the way out of Cape Race we stopped at Long Beach to eat lunch.  Fabian Coomb pulled up on his quad.  He is one of the lighthouse keepers.  He was scouting out cloudberries so he could pick them when ready.  To buy cloudberry anything is quite expensive.  It also goes by the name of bakeapple.  The bakeapple jam is twice as expensive as any other jam we have seen on the shelves.  The bakeapple jam is always sold out.   I have learned that cloudberries are also known as salmon berries and we get those in BC.  

After dinner, we walked down to the beach to watch for whales.  We were 

A tired home.

fortunate enough to see one put on a bait of a show but no photographs.  He was very close to shore a couple of times and that was very exciting.  When I got back to the trailer, Verna dropped by and we had a great chat.  When Karen got back to the trailer the three of us went into the interpretation centre, thanks to Verna for having keys.  Talking to Verna and having a Scotch on the rocks was a wonderful way to end the evening.  

After Verna got home she generously messaged to invite us over for lunch and showers the next day which we graciously accepted.  

July 7 - Waiting Out The Storm

Our Newfie lunch.  Thanks, Verna!

WOW!  It was a rock and roll night.  We got blasted with wind and rain.  It was not supposed to be so bad.  While walking Morgan,  I was weighing my options of staying put or moving the trailer to somewhere safer.  I decided to stay put given the information I collected - wind speed, wind direction, time, and how we are parked.  I decided to staying put was the best for us.  We are stable.  

After a delicious breakfast of pancakes with a delicious topping of simmered butter, cinnamon, bananas, and nectarine we headed over to Verna’s for a much needed and much appreciated shower.  We had a Newfoundland lunch / dinner of bologna, baked beans, sausage, and white pudding.  This was accompanied by tea and toast with cloudberry jam.  

Verna then took us on a tour of the nearby communities.  We had a great time walking trails, visiting falls, and buying fresh baked bread from the local store.  Thank you Verna!  You are the best.