Every place we have visited, we have left with rocks unturned.
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| Little dogwood-type flowers grow here. |
June 15 - Fogo Island to Twillingate.
This morning was more laid back than usual. Up early, we decided it was a good time to shower and beat the rush. I wrote out postcards to my grands so that I could mail them from Fogo Island. I took my time and enjoyed my latte before preparing the truck and trailer for leaving.
Karen and I have assumed roles in preparation to leave camp. Karen will often prepare the inside of the trailer while I raise the stabilizers, hook up the trailer, install the anti-sway bars,
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| Never enough time for unique places. |
and hook up all the safety gear. Propane gets turned off, electrical cord gets unplugged and put away. We have a great little routine.
This morning we were ready early and there was no point in leaving too early because we had to catch the ferry. We chose to spend a little more time at the campsite rather than in the ferry line.
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| Bath time before grooming day. |
With the extra time, I brushed and combed Morgan in preparation for a bath tonight, in preparation for a full clipping tomorrow.
We also had a great chat with the neighbour next door. He, too, was a sailor and taught power squadron. Sadly I cannot remember where he is from.
You cannot make ferry reservations and we wanted to be sure to get there early enough to ensure a spot on the 14:00 sailing. We were there at noon and we were not the first. Thankfully we had the trailer so we made espressos and grilled cheese sandwiches for lunch and then I walked Morgan. The time went by so fast. Before we knew it we were loading leave
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| Fishermen rule! |
Fogo.
The people we met were so kind and full of stories. There is Lorne Oakes (sp?). He is the unofficial ambassador to Brimstone Head RV Campsite. Remember he’s the brother of a friend of a friend. He visited us a few nights and told great stories of history, his family, weather and more.
There there was Jennifer who owns Tilting Cup cafe in Tilting. She is the one who gave us another perspective of the Fogo Island Inn. It was one of those situations where you hear
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| Sunset at Twillingate. |
everything the Inn wants you to know but there are two sides to every story. Jennifer, I feel, had a handle on the other side.
Then there was Peter, the cook at Tilting Cup. We ended up sitting outside with Morgan and when Peter came out Morgan made her way to him and melted under the spell of his soft touch. Her eyes were almost rolling into the back of her head. Hahahaha.
And I must tell you about Anne (sp?) and Rebecca. There is a museum house in Joe Batt’s Arm called Brett House. I had taken some photos of the
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| It’s easy to find treasures to photograph. |
outside and knew that someone was inside by the rugs and such outside airing. I moved on to photograph something else when Karen walked to the house got us invited in for a private tour. Anne and Rebecca were so funny with their stories not only of the house but of themselves. We had such a great time and were amazed at the endurance of the families in the late 1800’s to continue to call that place home. Simply amazing. We left giving each other big hugs.
Later on we met Kirk. Kirk was sitting on his back deck when he strolled out to meet Morgan. He, like many, told us that we can go anywhere, take any
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| A rest on the Natural Arches hike. |
pictures and no one will mind. He told us stories of the fish plant where he worked. He told us stories of the brutal winds that come in February. He confirmed Lorne’s stories of 160kph winds are common in winter.
And of course there is Roy. Roy takes care of the RV site. We would see him each morning making the rounds visiting all the campers. “If there is anything you need, just call,” he would remind us.
I am so glad that I did not do this trip last year with COVID still being a worry. Last year I would not have met the people I have. I would not be sitting with
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| We got Screeched! |
them, talking with them, laughing with them, exchanging stories with them or hugging them.
Fogo Island has left a lasting impression. I admire all who live there. I truly wish it was closer so I could visit again and again.
The drive off the ferry to Twillingate was almost uneventful until Karen told me to turn right and it should have been left. Pulling a trailer you do not want to find yourself in tight places. We found ourselves in a tight spot but managed to turn around with a 5-point turn with a little help from a friend to watch the front of the truck while Karen spotted the rear of the trailer.
We are currently at Peyton’s Wood RV park. The prices are inexpensive so
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| We are new Newfies. Screeeeeeech! |
we are enjoying the luxury of water, electricity, and sewer.
Tonight was bath night for Morgan. She is going to get clipped tomorrow. Sadly I didn’t join Karen for an evening walk so I could keep Morgan clean before clipping. It will be good to trim her down for the ease of care and cool comfort in the heat. Friday is supposed to be 24 C here.
June 16 - Twillingate
Today was clipping day for Morgan. She was freshly bathed the night before and ready for a trim. This is the first time I have trimmed her on the
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| A little love for the Ugly Stick. |
road. I was extremely happy that I had bought a bug tent last year. I purchased it for the trip to the Yukon and used it only once. It’s a Canadian Tire special 12 X 12 tent that fits over the picnic table. It came with a wind guard so I put that up to stop Morgan’s hair from blowing everywhere. It also served as a privacy screen so neither of us could be distracted by passers by. It took a couple hours and during that time the temperature was climbing. We did it. She is cooler and ready to hike some more.
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| Salt Harbour, near Twillingate. |
After trimming Morgan we headed into town to get a feel for it. Ice cream was on the top of the list then we hit the tourist information centre. It was one of the few we have seen open since we left Ontario on May 21.
The temperature climbed to 26 C and the forecast was for 18.
After dinner we walked to the beach just down the road. Morgan swam, we chatted with some local ladies and then watched the sun dip behind the headlands. It was stunning. One of the best I have seen in a long time. We agreed that we would head down
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| Long Point Lighthouse. |
again tomorrow night.
June 17 - Twillingate, still
This morning we were up at 0400 to head to Long Point Lighthouse for sunrise. Our timing was perfect. After an hour we headed to the other side of Twillingate to do an early-morning hike while it was cooler. The forecast was for warmer temperatures than yesterday and it reached 28 C.
We had decided to do a relatively short hike to the Natural Arches. Somewhere we took a right turn instead of a left turn and our short 2 km hike turned into six plus kms but it was the best wrong turn ever! We were stunned by the scenery. The rugged coast of Newfoundland is breathtaking.
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| Natural Arches after a long hike. |
At one point while driving around Twillingate we came across a strange looking boat. It was strange because of its bow. Ironically, we stopped a fella to ask if he knew the story of the boat and he said yes, he was the owner. Hahaha. The odds of that happening ….
Transport Canada told him it was too long for his fishing license so he shortened the bow. Then he had to go through a costly and lengthy process of proving its stability in open water. Apparently it is the second boat he has shortened from the bow.
After being up so early, I was ready for an afternoon nap. Plus, it was very
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| Twillingate Shed Party! |
hot. I hung around the campsite and did a drawing before dinner. After dinner we hiked up to the top of the headland near the RV park. It was stunning. We had a bit of a sunset so it was well worth it. It was very windy up there but oddly it was not cold.
A few people got a kick out of Morgan swimming after her stick. It’s always fun to watch her make them laugh.
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| My little watercolour of a Fogo Island house. |
June 18 - Still Twillingate
This was a lazy morning after getting up early yesterday. We did some exploring to Moreton’s Harbour, Tizzards Harbour, and checked out Hayward Cove.
There are so many coves, inlets, harbours, and roads to explore. We are doing our best to get to most of them. Some are rewarding and some are less so but we are both curious enough to keep checking out what’s down the road.
Back in Twillingate we discovered that the firemen were having a car wash and I badly needed a truck wash. So, off we went to find them. It was great to be surrounded by so many men. Hahahahahaha. The truck was much cleaner after the outside scrub.
In the afternoon we decided to check out the shops and galleries. There
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| Shortened bow. Strange looking boat. |
were a few compared to all the other places we were. It was in one shop that we discovered a singer/guitar player was going to be playing at the old church tonight. Mike Sixonate was his name. He plays his original Newfoundland music. Plus a bonus - we could get Screeched in and become honourably Newfoundlanders.
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| Ready for fishing. |
His music was great. I really enjoyed his guitar playing too. But, the best part was the Screech ceremony. In the past you were tasked with kissing a cod but because of COVID that was not possible. To be Screeched in, we had to bite the head off a dried and salted capelin and eat it. OMG! I believe it is worse than kissing a cod. We earned two slams of Screech!
I am a Newfie!
June 19 - Last Day In Twillingate
This morning was a leisure morning and chore morning. We did laundry. I
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| A common Newfoundland site. |
rearranged the back of the truck and we started packing and organizing for leaving tomorrow.
I was supposed to be purchasing a print from a local artist. The one I wanted was framed and I could not bring a framed print home so he said he had another print that he would sign it for me. I just had to give him until today to get it ready. When we
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| Karen’s inspiration. |
went back in the afternoon, as agreed, he was nowhere to be seen. It was all OK. I knew then that I was not meant to have that particular piece of art. We went grocery shopping instead and picked up a few bits and pieces we thought we would need.
The big event for today was actually happening tonight. We were going to a Shed Party. We had no idea what to expect. This was another OMG moment. We wore hats, played ugly sticks, sang and danced for two hours. I met people from Parksville and Port Alberni
i. We met up with people from the previous Screech night too. It was so
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| One tired puppy getting love from Karen. |
June 20 - Twillingate to Newman Sound, Terra Nova National Park
As with most places we leave, we left Twillingate with things still to do. Hikes to hike, and pictures to take but we must move on. We left Twillingate about 10 and headed towards Bonavista via the coastal routes. We explore the
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| The end of a perfect day. |
seaside communities as we drive on. I must say, there was not a lot that caught my eye for photos. Some areas were foggy and cold, and some were hot and we felt over dressed. It is Newfoundland. You can have four seasons in a day. Hahahahaha
We decided we would make our way to Terra Nova National Park. The campground sounded good. It was good but it was very confusing to figure out what sites were available. We
had to reverse engineer the choices. Then when the park person came around we found out that the campground is not officially open until next week. It was a great place to stop, eat and sleep.
June 21- Newman Sound to Elliston, NL
Yesterday, before we left Twillingate, we called the Municipal Hall in Elliston. They handle the camping reservations. The voice recording said they do
not open until 12:30 so we just headed out believing that we would get a phone call back. We did and as planned, they had room for us. We booked four nights. It was not a long drive to Elliston. We were there by 12:30. We
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| Clayton’s Chip Truck. |
picked site #9 overlooking the rest of the campground and a view of the ocean - the Atlantic Ocean! We got settled, had a bite to eat and headed to Bonavista to the lighthouse. On the way we say beautiful horses grazing by the cliffs.
Once at the lighthouse we decided to walk a trail that took us around the
lighthouse. As Mother Nature decided, the fog rolled in and the horn blew. Morgan was not happy about that. I took her to the car and then the rain started. Karen joined us shortly after. We toured around Bonavista and stopped at the local grocery store to pick up a couple things before heading back to camp.
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| Do you know the puffin man, the puffin man? |
It’s great here because there is a beautiful little grassy park for Morgan to play fetch, plus , as mentioned earlier, we are right across the street from the ocean. Life is great!
June 22 - Elliston
Today was touring day to Trinity. We decided to head toward Trinity East and boy-o-boy were we delighted with the old fishing shack and the fog covering Trinity Bight. I pulled over and we got out. There was a fella also taking pictures so I asked him if he got the shots he was looking for. Dave, is his name. Karen, Dave and I ended up having a long conversation and we
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| Bonavista ponies grazing on the cliff. |
heard about this trip to Tofino and meeting up with a Newfie there. He also
told us he is the park guy at the local provincial park and if we decided to stay there it would be on him. Such a nice fella. We had a few laughs. The conversation came to an end because we needed to start taking more pictures as the fog was creeping around the bight.
Often we are taking wrong turns and we found ourselves on the road to Boneventure - not where we wanted to go. After we turned around we made our way to the
lighthouse in Trinity. It is actually across the bight and when we got there we discovered (because the fog lifted) that we were now looking towards Trinity East where we were talking to Dave. Sheesh.
Sadly, when we got to the lighthouse, it was still closed from last season and we expected it would be opening in a few days because many of these places hire the local high school kids to man the summer attractions. We had our orange and snacked on some
grapes before heading into Trinity proper.
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| Port Rexton |
It is the most touristy place we have been besides Twillingate. There are
souvenir shops, an ice cream and chocolate shop, and a couple high-end
restaurants scattered amongst the many vacation homes. We parked, got ice cream from Aunt Sarah’s then lounged on the waterfront while we ate it. We both agreed that being the second time we had Aunt Sarah’s ice cream, we did not need it again. Neither one of us was thrilled with the quality nor the choice of flavours. Are we gelato snobs? Probably, since the best we had was in Italy a few years back.
We strolled Trinity, took pictures, and spoke to whomever would talk to us - which were other tourists, the kayak guy, the blacksmith and the shop people.
We found a nice beach for Morgan to have a swim and naturally there were things to take pictures of while she swam. She enjoyed the refreshing Atlantic Ocean temps to cool her little body.
Next stop in our day was Port Rexton where they have a micro brewery. We
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| East Trinity where we met Dave. |
have taken it upon ourselves to taste beer when it is convenient. Today was one of those days.
The brewery doesn’t offer food but with the neat set up they have, there was a food truck just outside that made gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches plus they served fries. I had never heard of it before coming to Newfoundland but fries with dressing (like turkey dressing) and gravy is the thing here. So Karen and I ordered a sandwich with fries and gravy. Then we headed into the brewery to order a flight of four beer to taste. It was good but my favourite micro brewery so far is Ragna Rock in St. Anthony’s.
Morgan was allowed on their patio and naturally she was a big hit with a few of the customers. She parked herself on the bench beside me as if I was going to share my dinner with her. That idea was quickly reversed by putting her on the ground while we ate. On the way out one lady just had to give her some lovies and Morgan soaked it up like she had never been loved before. It’s pathetic.
When we got home I have to admit I was pooped. The food and beer did me in. I am sure I was in bed by 21:30 hrs. It was a great day, as many of our days are.
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| Find the puffin. |
June 23 - West side of Bonavista Peninsula
Today is an exploring day. We love to poke into the little seaside villages tucked into cove, inlets, and bays. We set out with Open Hall and Tickle Cove as the goals and we discovered so much more.
Keels is where you can find Clayton and his chip truck, the Devil’s Footprints, a beach for Morgan and a post office that is also the general store, the local craft store, and a tea room.
To get to Keels we took Hwy 235 and moseyed through Birchy Cove, Newman, Amherst Cove, Knights Cove, Duntara and finally Keels. When we head into these places many of them are dead ends and you have to make your way back out to the highway. Duntara took us to Keels. Of all places to have a chip truck but there was Clayton busy as anything with tourists and cooking up a storm. We also confirmed with Clayton what we had thought from earlier conversations with Newfoundlanders - the youngest son inherits the family property. Clayton’s neighbour was one such fella. He
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| Skerwink world-renowned trail. |
lives in St. John’s in the winter and his mother’s birth home in the spring, summer and early fall.
After chips, dressing and gravy at Clayton’s, Karen and I vowed that we had had enought of that kind of food for quite awhile. We were so full be barely had anything to eat for dinner. Also being so full I had to pee. There was no place at Clayton’s and I thought I could find a place at the beach. Nope. The houses here are facing every directions so no matter where I dropped my drawers someone could have been subject to sights that may have needed therapy. Hahahaha.
Karen checked in at the post office and lo and behold they had a loo we could use. That is when we discovered the tea room, craft store, general store and liquor store.
I found a mat to purchase. It is made from old line from a town we passed through called Gloverston. The line has been upsycled. I saw one on Fogo Island that was much smaller for the same price. I didn’t purchase it because I thought it was a tad expensive. Then I saw one in Trinity for more than double the price made out of new line. Being made out of new line
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| Breathtaking view. |
didn’t appeal to me nor did the elevated price. This one was bigger and a tighter weave. I was happy to support a local and get my Newfoundland mat.
There were reports of a berg in Open Hall but with all the off-shore winds I am sure it floated out to see and also dwindled in size. We didn’t see it.
After another day of driving I was pooped and ready to head to Minnie Home for some down time.
Needless to say, we have all been sleeping well. Morgan has even had some nights of snoring and loud dreams.
June 24 - East Trinity - Skerwink Trail
Today we chose world renowned Skerwink Trail over a sunrise. It was a
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| Mushroom-eating squirrel. |
good call because the sunrise was probably nonexistent due to fog. In fact, when we arrived at East Trinity to do the trail we opted for have some breakfast at Peace Cove Inn to wait for the fog to lift.
The owner of the Inn raised her eyebrow when we mentioned our plan as if to say good luck. She said it may lift in five minutes, or it may lift if five hours, or it may lift in days. OK, let’s have coffee and see what happens.
Fortunately it was brightening and off we went. The 5 km loop trail took us three hours and thirty three minutes with all our stops. Unfortunately the fog did not lift for us to see the world-renowned vistas but we had a great time nonetheless. We were in awe of how high we were, how windy the headlands were, and the serpent moves of the fog. It slithered toward and
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| Stunning vistas at Trinity Bight. |
away from land, tricking us to think we would see more than we did.
Toward the end we found a beautiful beach that we did not want to leave. The wind was warm, the rocks were hot, the vistas were gorgeous and we were in heaven. Morgan was too. She had a beach, a stick, and water.
Our day for a quick hike and get back to the trailer to do some chores took us seven hours. Now I am catching up on the blog. Karen is hand washing her laundry. Morgan is lazing in the shade. Soon we will head to the cafe and, fingers crossed, I can upload this and some pictures.
We also need to plan our final 24 days on this rock to ensure we get done
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| Another micro brewery added to our list. |
the last of the things we want to accomplish and see the places we want to go.
I am not sure if I mentioned it earlier but we are booked for July 19. If we did not take that date then the next possible date for a pet-friendly cabin for a 6-hour ferry ride would have been August 14.
I want to give a huge shout out to Karen for the many pictures of Morgan and me. Thank you from the bottom of my heart. 💜

























































