The church at Tadoussac overlooking the St. Lawrence

No Cell Service Makes For A Long Post

Grab a tea, a coffee, a water or whatever.  Today is catch up day because we have not had cell service.  Also, some photo credits go to Karen.  Thank you, Karen, for sharing.  I appreciate the pics you can get while I am driving and your awesome perspective.  

 May 24 Saint Simeon to Baie Comeau

We took our time leaving Saint Simeon.  It was a lovely morning to relax, 

Lunch at the sand dunes, Tadoussac, QC

shower, and start late.  Just down the road was the ferry we needed to cross the Fjord du Sagenay.  It’s a part of the highway system so it was free.  On the other side is the quaint seaside village of Tadoussac.  We took the opportunity to visit the visitor centre, stroll the few streets, walk to the point (hoping to see whales) and then back to the truck to carry on.  

The St. Lawrence from the dunes.

The drive to Baie Comeau took us through more seaside/ riverside villages and over mountains (OK they are really hills).  Some villages had no services and others had minimal services.  One served up the best ice cream. The vanilla was really vanilly and the chocolate was chocolate y and creamy.  That medium-sized ice cream ended up being so filling it was our dinner :)

At Baie Comeau we knew there was a Walmart so we picked our spot and 

The best ice cream - so far.  Forestville, QC

settled in for the night.  Karen purchased some wine for our journey up QC Highway 389 that had very few services.  I purchased cold sore medicine for a blankety-blank-blank cold sore that developed on my lip.  Geeeeezzzzzzz.  

We settled in for a good night sleep - as best we could sleeping next to a busy highway.  It was surprisingly quiet and we both slept well.  

May 25 - Baie Comeau to Your Guess Is As Good As Mine.

Prior to leaving on our adventure, Karen and I researched and researched QC Highway 389 and found it quite difficult to find current information.  We knew gas could be hard to find so we were prepared with 80 litres of gas in four jerry cans.  

Morgan has a new spoiler.

What we did not know is the condition of the road.  We had read it was paved.  I was told it was paved and yet we found out there were two stretches of gravel - one 100km stretch and one 67km stretch.  There was no turning back.  I knew that we may be travelling at a snail’s pace on the gravel but we were ready to take on the challenge.  

Our first impression was Holy $hit do the transport and logging trucks ever 

The start of a new adventure.

fly.  Cars, pickup trucks, logging truck, transport rigs - they all drive like they are in a Canadian car rally.  They travelled so crazy fast that all we could do was laugh and stick to our side of the road.  We carried on slow and steady.  To understand the traffic is to understand that this road was built mainly for the hydro company to access it’s many dams and hydro stations.  There are no campsites on this road.  There are few formal pull offs for vans or trucks with campers.  For trucks (like mine)  pulling trailers its another story.  Also, there are no designated ‘rest stops’ for folks like us.  There are rest stops for transport trucks with only a trash can - no restroom facilities.  Sadly these stops are littered with trash.  

The dam at Manic Cinq.

We arrived at the first fueling stop at Manic Cinq (5).  We fueled.  The pump said $2.45 per litre but we were only charged $2.135. It felt like we won the lottery. Hahahaha. 

Manic Cinq  is the site of a huge dam which we found ourselves at the bottom and climbed a 17% grade hill to get to the top and carry on towards Labrador City.  

Sadly the scenery was underwhelming.  The drive to the Yukon last year was much more beautiful.  There is no greenery on the deciduous trees and there is a lot of ice on the lakes.  Sadly there so few places to pull over and 

No gas available here.  

take pictures.  

The 100km stretch of gravel road was in very good shape.  We made good time and sustained zero rock chips in the windshield.  That was great considering I just got a new windshield at the beginning of April.

Next place we came to was Relais Gabriele.  This place was proof that you cannot rely on anything being open.  The gas pumps were in bits and pieces and parts while a repairman worked 

Transport truck pullout.  

on them.  The whole place was for sale.  We were relieved that we fueled at Manic Cinq.

Along route 389 is the abandoned town of Gagnon.  Actually you cannot say it was abandoned because the houses, stores, and all buildings were removed.  Not one building in site BUT, there were a couple kilometres of sidewalk along the highway.  In hindsight we could have pulled over there to stay the night but we decided to soldier onwards.  Much to my disappointment the paved road from Gagnon to Fire Lake was rougher than the 100 kms of gravel.  Oh my it was rough and bumpy.  My average speed over that portion was 40km/hr.  At Fire Lake we encountered the next stretch of gravel road (67Km)   It was in rough shape and slow going.  After 17km we had finally 

Morning reflections.

had enough so we pulled over at a truck rest stop.  It was near a lake but not accessible by any trails much to Morgan’s disappointment.  Trucks came and went from this stop but none stayed the night.  

Fire Lake is an access point for the iron-ore train.  It pulled scores of cars in and out of the mine most of the night.  We will always wonder why it ran so late and why it blew it’s whistle at the very spot were were camping.  Again, we could only laugh.  

SOS Phone booth on QC Hwy 389

May 26 - Truck Pullout to Labrador City

We had 40km of dirt to go.  I was rested and into it.   At the end of the gravel  road was the mining town of Fermont, QC.   This is the last Quebec town before crossing into Labrador.  We did a drive through and decided there was no need to stay and carried on to Labrador City.  

Fer is iron and mont is mountain.  Fermont = Iron Mountain.  

I had noticed while driving that my odometer turned over to 103,000 which meant that servicing was due.  I 

Lots of these on Hwy 389

phoned ahead to Carol Ford in Labrador City.  Sadly I could only leave a message that said we will get back to you 

before the end of the day.

Fermont is very close to Lab City (as the locals call it).  We were there by 11:00 hrs and went directly to the dealership.  I told them I was from Vancouver Island.  The first thing one of the fellas said was, “Well, you took a wrong turn somewhere.”  

I told them what I needed to have done and they managed to fit me in later 

Leaving Quebec for NL

in the afternoon, plus gave us permission to boondock in the back lot.  Perfect!!  I could not be happier knowing that the truck was going to be taken care of.  The next place would have been Gander about 3,000 km away.  Thank goodness I purchased the Ford Service package when I purchased the truck.  I got my regular servicing done, new brakes, tires rotated, new wipers, fluids topped up, and a recall part replaced.  Thank you, CAROL FORD!

We had some time to kill so went exploring and found the most delightful coffee shop called Well Bean, a play on words for well being.  The coffee was

Overnighting at Carol Ford, Labrador City

 superb. It looked like a local hit based on the amount of people coming and going.  Next we went to the local ski hill.  Yes, Labrador City has a ski hill about two klicks out of town.  It was perfect for Karen and I to stretch our muscles and lungs plus Morgan had a great run uphill.  The bonus was the spectacular view of the city between two lakes.  

The view from Smokey Mountain

At Dave’s retirement party.  

Our next stop was the tourist information centre.  Here is where the stories 

begin and my mundane play by play takes a rest.  

At the tourist info centre we met Lydia (from England) who was a wealth of information. While there she asked if we were driving a red truck and we said yes.  She then said that a couple - driving a white truck with a white camper -  had been in earlier and mentioned that they hoped we would be alright (because of the rough road) and hoped we would stop at the tourist information centre.

Our new Carol Ford toques.  A fashion statement.

We had not met this couple.  We had simply waved to each other on Highway 389.  They were pulled over and we honked as we passed because they were the only other campers we had seen.  When we were stopped they went by and honked and waved.  So, when they arrived at the tourist info centre, they had mentioned two girls in a red truck pulling a trailer.  

We had a good laugh with Lydia when we connected the dots.  Then 

Some of the 167 kms of dirt road.

another lady came out of her office and said, “Are you the girls?” And we laughed again.  

Also at the tourist centre we met a Swiss couple travelling in a truck and camper.  We shared some of our adventure stories and the direction we are headed.  

Lydia strongly suggested that we try the Micro Brewery.  We got dressed up (changed shirt, brushed hair and teeth, and washed face) and off we trundled down Humphrey Street.  We were sincerely disappointed when we were told the brewery was closed for a private function.  

A wee truck from the iron ore mine.

When we arrived people were standing outside having a smoke and told us the disappointing news.  We pouted and whined as we walked away saying it was our only night.  Just a couple minutes later a man hollered and got our attention.  He said come and have a beer.  It’s my retirement party.  This is the story when you go in.  He said, “Tell them you use to work with me 32 years ago in the pellet department.”  Karen thought he said peller and I thought he said pillow.  It took a couple minutes

Huge is an understatement.

 to realize (with his accent) he was saying pellet.  Oh my goodness, did we have fun with that when we went in.  

We had our beer and a few pictures taken with Dave before making our way back to the trailer.  

For not knowing we would have a layover in Lab City, we had a great time and a lot of laughs.  

Our bartender at Iron Rock Micro Brewery

May 27 Labrador City to Highway Maintenance Yard (east of Churchill Falls)

I am sure Morgan is wondering why I am taking her to so many places with such different smells.  She struggles to find the right smell and spot for her potty moments but we get there.  

After walking her this morning, I wandered down to the dealership to see when my truck would be ready.  We were in no hurry.  I was just curious.  I think they have enjoyed our business and stories.  The service fella

Four of eight samples.

 gave us each a Carol Ford toque.  It was so cute.  They gave us a gift and it was I who owed them for their extraordinary service.  

With an hour and a half to kill, Karen and I wondered back to Well Bean for a morning coffee.  

After picking up the truck, we toodled over to Tim Horton’s to buy some Timbits and donuts for the staff at Carol Ford.  To our surprise the line for the drive through was way down the block.  It was not bother because we were going in but we were both astonished at the length of the line.  There are Tim Hortons and Mary Browns Chicken shop everywhere.  

One of our boondocking spots.

We headed out of Labrador City at 11:30 with the intent of staying at Churchilll Falls and viewing the falls.  We had seen some spectacular pictures on the internet.  To our disappointment they were dry.  Closed for cleaning, as Ron would say.  The riverbed was a tremendous zig zag path of solid rock.  It was quite amazing even though it was dry.  In the town itself we found the gas station to top up.  It was $2.319 and the most we had paid for fuel.  Karen was chatting with the lady in the store and she said they had shut the water of while the ice melts and when the ice melt is finished they may open it up.  

Churchill Falls is known for it’s underground hydro station.  We met Phillip 

Boondocking at the Highways yard.

(sp) who was supervising the painting of the cross walk.  He said that at least one person from each household was employed by hydro.  We actually drove by Phillip three times.  We learned that he was originally from the Avalon area and his sister works at Cape St. Mary’s ecological reserve. 

Phillip had also mentioned there was  highways equipment yard about half way to Happy Valley-Goose Bay.  With the falls closed (hahaha) we decided 

Torquing the wheel lugs.

to head eastwards with a keen eye to find out next boondocking spot.  The drive was easy, there was very, very little traffic and we made good time.  We stopped for a bit to eat beside an ice covered lake.  Funny thing there was not trash but what appeared to be goose or duck feathers.  There was almost enough to fill a quilt.  Also there was an abandoned school bus.  It reminded us both of the story of the young man in Alaska who perished in the wilderness in his bus.  

Further down the road Karen spotted the green highway’s buildings.  We pulled in for the night.  The ground was sandy, the yard was big and that also made a great place for Morgan to play fetch 

Abandoned bus and one of hundreds of towers.

and get some exercise.  

Karen noticed some fabric hanging from the bottom of the trailer.  I had some Gorilla tape with me so I crawled under the trailer, cleaned the surface and Karen handed me pieces of the Gorilla tape to stick the undercarriage fabric back into place.  

Also, I remembered that Carol Ford had told me to tighten the nuts on the wheels after 100kms.  Torque them to 150 lbs.  Hmmmmmm. That’s not going to happen but I did torque them with my wheel wrench and I did it to 120 lbs because that is what I weigh.  Is that what they meant?????  I think not but it will have to do.  I tried.  

Happy Valley-Goose Bay boondocking.

The nights are getting long.  The stars were a twinkling.  The temperature was chilly at night but we were warm when tucked into Minnie Home.  

May 28 - Highway Yard to Happy Valley-Goose Bay

It was an easy drive to these two little communities.  Goose Bay you turn left and Happy Valley you turn right. We turned right.  I must mention here that the name is officially Happy Valley-Goose Bay.  My intent was to find a tire store to have the nuts professionally torqued.  No such luck.  It’s Saturday 

Meeting new friends along the way.

and most everything is closed. Even the tourist information centre was closed.  We wanted more information on the area and on Highway 510 the next leg and the last leg of the journey to the coast.  

We ventured to Northwest River to the Interpretation Centre.  It was 40 kms from Happy Valley.  Those 40 kms took us an hour because the road was so bad.  Paved but lumpy on both sides.  The interpretation centre was well put together.  Larry greeted us with great enthusiasm and directed us to the art room and the museum.  It is small, but packed a punch with information, displays, and audio recordings.  

Spring has arrived at Northwest River.

We were short on water and Larry was kind enough to fill our portable bottle.  While I was walking Morgan, Karen was chatting with Larry and he alerted us to the current weather report.  Snow!  Karen being the great co-pilot that she is immediately started researching for our current location and where we were headed.  Snow.  

On the way into Happy Valley-Goose Bay we spotted the Swiss couple pulling into a fuel station.  We laughed and wondered if we would see them again.  

We decided that it would likely be best not to head down Highway 510 

Frozen lakes are everywhere.

because the next town was at least 400 kms away which equated to a 6-hour drive for us.  It also meant that we would not have any cell service.  The next decision was where to stay for the night.  I thought maybe the tourist information centre would be a place to park for the night.  We pulled in and pulled out our phones to do a bit more research.  While doing that, another couple (Kelly and Chris from Marken, ON) pulled up looking 

Apples at the local Co op

disappointed the information centre was closed.  We rolled down the window and started chatting.  He had met, by accident, the Mayor of the town and the Mayor pointed him in the direction of the local Rotary park.  We followed him there and set up for the evening.  It was not long before the Swiss couple (that we met at the tourist information centre in Lab City) pulled in.  Oh the small world we live in.  

They came over to our trailer and Karen informed them of the snow.  They 

Bologna is a big deal here.

looked shocked and decided to stay for the night.  Bahahahah.

We had a great evening hosting Kelly and Chris at Minnie Home for the evening.  It was stormy.  We were waiting for the temperature to drop and the snow to start falling.  

May 29 Happy Valley-Goose Bay Layover

I awoke at 06:30.  There was about an inch on the ground and snowing hard.  I started reviewing my favourite weather apps.  It was snowing at our next destination.  I could not find current road conditions because they stopped updating the website on May 3.  Karen tried to phone and same - no current information. I could only assume it was snowing all the way from here to there.  Not knowing the road, the elevation, nor the conditions we decided to stay put for the day and wait for the rain that is  predicted for tomorrow.  

We took the opportunity to get propane.  There was only one place in town 

Pen and ink at the interpretive centre.  

and it didn’t open until noon.  Home Hardware here we come.  A 20 lb tank fill was $42.55 including taxes. Ouch! Then we tried to find a place to fill the water tank.  That was a miserable fail so we bought water ($4.00 for 20 litres) at the Co Op to hold us over until our next stop on the coast.   

We did our  laundry at the laundromat that is situated in someone’s front yard.  Then we headed to the YMCA for a swim, shower, and hair wash.  It felt sooooooo good.  

This Y opened in 2021.  It’s beautiful inside.

Before heading out to do our chores we said goodbye Chris and Kelly.  They decided to head south on NL Highway 510 to the coast.  The Swiss could not make up their minds so we goodbye to them just in case we did see each other again.  

We made our way back to the trailer and found the Swiss back in the parking lot.  They changed their minds again and decided to stay the night.  While I was exercising Morgan, they stepped out of the trailer and asked for a weather update.  I just had to laugh.  

It will be a fairly early night tonight because we are planning to leave by 08:00 to get an early start to a long day tomorrow.  

Wishing you all sunshine, joy, and laughter.